An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love. This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots.
There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip. Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring–do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave–riders alike, and some are illustrated with colour photographs.
What members say
- jillian grant
Boring and unfunny.
What could have made this a 4 or 5-star listening experience for you?
If I'd understood more of what was being talked about and if there was more humour.
What will your next listen be?
Which scene did you most enjoy?
You didn’t love this book--but did it have any redeeming qualities?
I like the narrator.
Any additional comments?
I guess you have to be into surfing to get this book. I'm not and didn't find it at all funny or interesting. I don't blame Mark Meadows. I've heard another book he's read and thought that was okay.