Portland's Thai Food Glow-Up: Inside the Khao Soi Wars and Why Everyone's Fighting Over Dumplings cover art

Portland's Thai Food Glow-Up: Inside the Khao Soi Wars and Why Everyone's Fighting Over Dumplings

Portland's Thai Food Glow-Up: Inside the Khao Soi Wars and Why Everyone's Fighting Over Dumplings

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 Food Scene Portland

# Portland's Thai Renaissance: A City Redefining Regional Cuisine

Portland's culinary landscape is experiencing a remarkable transformation, particularly within its already celebrated Thai food scene. Two standout January 2026 openings have positioned the city at the forefront of authentic regional Thai cuisine, signaling a broader shift toward focused, expert-driven dining concepts.

Yui represents a triumphant homecoming for the beloved mom-and-daughter establishment. After years operating as a pop-up on Tuesday nights at Alberta Street's Bonne Chance wine bar, owner Chalunthorn Schaeffer reopened her restaurant in a spacious new location on Southeast Belmont Street. Schaeffer's culinary pedigree is impressive—she built her career at Michelin-starred establishments like New York's Bar Masa before founding Yui during the pandemic. What sets this restaurant apart is its rejection of Portland's typical "pick-a-protein" Thai model. Instead, dishes like massaman curry arrive thoughtfully paired with just two options: tofu or braised beef. The menu draws heavily from Northern Thailand, particularly Chiang Mai, with specials featuring lesser-known items like sakoo, tapioca dumplings with sweet radish and soy. The standout khao soi—a coconut noodle soup developed by Schaeffer and her mother Ta Triamchainon—earned validation from one of their Chiang Mai-born chefs, who confirmed it tastes authentically like home.

Equally significant is OK Chicken and Khao Soi, the brainchild of restaurateur Akkapong Ninsom, whose previous ventures Yaowarat and Eem have garnered considerable acclaim. Opening in the historic space formerly occupied by Pok Pok, one of Portland's most celebrated Thai restaurants, OK Chicken specializes in charcoal-grilled meats, fried chicken, and regional Northern Thai dishes, paired with nonalcoholic juices and teas. This focused approach signals a citywide movement away from broad, encyclopedic menus toward restaurants that master specific regional traditions.

Beyond restaurant openings, Portland's food calendar brims with celebrations of culinary diversity. Dumpling Week runs February 15 through 21, while Dumpling Fest on March 4 brings tasting events featuring Chinese soup dumplings, Indian kofta, Korean mandu, Nepalese momos, and Mexican tamales. The Good in the Hood Festival, Portland's largest multicultural music and food event, returns June 27 through 29 at Lillis-Albina Park in North Portland, celebrating what the city does best: honoring diverse traditions through food.

What emerges from Portland's current dining moment is clear: the city's food culture has matured beyond novelty. Listeners are witnessing a culinary scene that prizes expertise, authenticity, and regional specificity. Whether through family-driven Thai kitchens or restored historic spaces, Portland demonstrates that great food doesn't require complexity—it requires knowledge, respect for tradition, and unwavering commitment to quality..


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