In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart.
"Captures the true feelings of the world's best surfers. The best I've ever read." (Greg Noll)
"An authentic, exciting look at one of the last frontiers of American culture." (Matt Warshaw, editor, Surfer magazine)
"Brings the North Shore to your doorstep - the big names and the unknowns. This book will keep you burning the midnight oil, and when you're finished, you'll be buying your plane ticket to Hawaii." (Mike Reilley, Los Angeles Times)
What members say
- Amazon Customer
All-time Inspirational Big wave surf culture!!
Loved it stop rewind re-listen over and over and over a must-read for every Surfer
this ain't no Barbarian Days
this book should have been called "Tales of a Surf Thug and other assaults"
disappointing and filled with "hr said" and then " He said" etc etc rtc