Walking the Nile
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Narrated by:
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Gildart Jackson
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Written by:
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Levison Wood
About this listen
Starting in November 2013 in a forest in Rwanda, where a modest spring spouts a trickle of clear, cold water, Levison Wood set forth on foot, aiming to become the first person to walk the entire length of the Nile. He followed the river for nine months, over 4,000 miles, through six nations - Rwanda, Tanzania, Uganda, South Sudan, the Republic of Sudan, and Egypt - to the Mediterranean coast. Like his predecessors, Wood camped in the wild, foraged for food, and trudged through rainforest, swamp, savannah, and desert, enduring life-threatening conditions at every turn. He traversed sandstorms, flash floods, minefields, and more, becoming a local celebrity in Uganda, where a popular rap song was written about him, and a potential enemy of the state in South Sudan, where he found himself caught in a civil war and detained by the secret police.
An inimitable tale of survival, resilience, and sheer willpower, Walking the Nile is an inspiring chronicle of an epic journey down the lifeline of civilization in northern Africa.
©2015 Levison Wood (P)2016 TantorWhat listeners say about Walking the Nile
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- Anonymous User
- 28-11-23
Travelogue tracing longest river in harshest route
This is the story of the author Levison's journey tracing the Nile from its source in Rwanda till the final delta in Egypt. It is told with lot of peppering of historical facts about various countries/locations along the Nile and hence it makes for a very interesting reading.
When asked, Why Nile? - he says, echoing Edmund Hillary's answer about climbing Mount Everest, "because it's there!".
I found that Levison is not just good at undertaking trecherous expeditions but he can also write skillfully about complicated subjects. Below are a few examples -
1)
" It is going to be as much a journey into the past as it will be about the future."
2)
Rawandan genocide of 1 million Tutsis from 1994 is the most well known fact about the country. The author describes the subsequent efforts towards peace and reconciliation in the book. They range from renaming of all rawandan tribes under the single title of Banyarawanda to mandatory monthly social service in capital Kigali for all citizens so that they work together. He puts it succinctly in following paragraph -
" These were the kind of questions Rawandans grappled with daily. How do you judge half a population? Is forgiveness a real possibility and how can we put paid collectively to the past? In this context, it was not so surprising to be watching Kigali's citizens being forced to sweep the streets. It seemed in that moment as much an act of collective penance as it was a scheme to force cooperation."
There are multiple events describing otherworldly nature or scale of problems in Africa. I will describe 2 of them below -
1) The author visited a Uagandan village where HIV AIDS infections started in early 1980s. People unfortunately didn't consider it anything more serious than malaria. Levison cites a source claiming an astonishing spread of 70% infection in that Village! He visits an AIDS orphanage. The person running the centre ruefully explains the hindrance of superstitions in curbing this menace.
2) In another village in Uganda, the poster in police station said - 'Say no to child sacrifice'. It is because a significant number of Africans do believe in witchcraft and these kind of sacrifices are not unheard of. So it is a real necessity to raise awareness against the practice of child sacrifice!
The author is quite candid about the intentions of 19th century Victorian explorers of Africa and doesn't try to glorify them.
He has to deal with local bureaucracy everywhere. From Rwanda to Egypt, he experienced tendency of armymen or officers to profit off from the expedition of this foreigner.
Crocodiles are a constant part of this story as well as anecdotes of locals. Too many people losing lives and limbs to them!
Almost all countries that author passes through were having or recently had unstable/ authoritarian governments. The effect of unstable regimes and constant violence on lives of common citizens is evident throughout the story. Levison's ability to empathise with plight of the locals provides depth to the discussions in the book.
I am listing down some interesting or striking points from the book for future reference. For readers intent on reading book on their own, this part can be skipped.
1) Tanzania - A union of Tanganica and Zamzibar, this was earlier an East German colony and later came under British rule after first world war. After independence, they had a prime minister with somewhat communist ideology for a long time which brought them closer to China.
2) Origin of nile has been a matter of passionate debate throughout the history. Ugandan people prefer the earlier notion that the Nile originates in Lake Victoria. But later studies showed that actual origin is further 500km south in Rwanda. The most gruesome evidence of this fact came forth during rawandan genocide. As Houthis thought that impure Tutsis came from the north, the piles of dead bodies were thrown in the Nile. The procession of corpses traced the path crossing Lake Victoria and then entering Nile as expected.
3) Matt was a reporter from a magazine covering the expedition for few days. Shockingly he dies of heat stroke in Uganda and Levison is heartbroken by his very sudden death. It reminds him that his journey can indeed be perilous.
4) The sudd is the vast swampland along Nile in South Sudan. Levison dreaded that part of his travel and ultimately had to skip that part due to violent war in South Sudan between various factions.
5) Khartoum is the location of confluence of blue Nile and white Nile.
The predominant religion in Sudan was Islam and in the southern part, it was Christianity & animistic religions. This was one of the reasons for separation.
6) Sudanese are known to be one of the most hospitable people in the world. The author would experience it multiple times.
The patriotism shown by his Sudanese guide Moiz was praiseworthy. He was heading the anti dam coalition because of which he was on govt radar. At the same time, he agreed to help Levison so that he can try to improve image of his country, already tarnished because of the govt, in the eyes of foreigners. That is some conviction!
7) Nero, who is famous for allowing burning of Rome, was actually instrumental in sending roman expeditions beyond Egypt. Nubian kingdom was flourishing for 1000 years along the Nile in today's Sudan. Pyramids of Meroe are famous. Nubians and Romans fought over the control of Egypt after death of Cleopatra.
8) In Sudan's desert, author gets to see corals - evidence of ocean that was there 200 million years ago. He also gets to see petrified driftwood - proof that there was forest there after the sea.
9) Arab spring - you see through the author's eyes the adverse effects on tourism in Egypt after change of regime in revolutions of 2011 & 2013. He cites examples of former tourism guides knowing 10 languages now forced to do menial jobs.
10) Common Egyptian doesn't consider his country to be part of Africa. They consider themselves to be better off.
Levison concludes his journey by reaching Nile delta in Egypt. His first stop of Delta is town called Rashid, also famous as Rosetta because of the Rosetta stone that was found there which allowed deciphering ancient Egyptian script to Greek. Final stop is Alexandria.
A historic journey along a historic river indeed!
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- Anonymous User
- 19-02-23
You will be walking with the author
What an extradinory and inspiring journey. The author takes you through the true vagaries of Nile from its origin to the end describing in small details the history and significance of the cities and the landmass Nile crosses along its path. Great narration by Gildart. Often times, I felt that I am walking along with the author as the narration captivates takes you with excellent modulation. Great read and listen. Don't miss it.
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- Anonymous User
- 04-08-22
A great rendering of a modern-day epic Odyssey
Levison Wood is the best explorer living. Loved every bit of this epic tale of daring adventure which he undertook walking the length of the mighty Nile.
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- Anonymous User
- 01-02-22
The Journey of Life
excellent it's worth listening and beautifully presented the complete experience as l am with
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- Anonymous User
- 22-09-24
walk of life time
I must admit i am a fan of adventure stories like this. But unlike others this is not from a bygone era. Thank you for the vivid description of nature and people of Africa
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- Anonymous User
- 22-02-19
Excellent Travelogue
As usual, Levison Wood has written a first rate travelogue. His writing brings up the scenes before the reader's eyes - be it the desert landscape or the turbulence in the African towns. I had also found his Himalayas travelogue very good. The narration by Gildart Jackson is also amazing. Truly five stars for the entire package.
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- Anonymous User
- 03-06-20
great journey
blend of information and adventure well captured by the author and amazingly presented by the narrator.
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