Episodes

  • Hair Loss: What Dermatologists Wish You Knew

    Hair Loss: What Dermatologists Wish You Knew
    May 14 2026
    Why does your ponytail suddenly feel thinner? Why does your parting look wider in photos? And why are so many women told that hair thinning is “just part of ageing” ... with very little guidance on what to do next? In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic , consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the science, myths and emotional reality of female pattern hair loss. From hormonal shifts and nutritional deficiencies to stress, postpartum shedding and scalp inflammation, they explain why female hair thinning is often misunderstood and why early diagnosis matters more than most people realise. Expect evidence-based advice, practical treatment insights, and a few unexpectedly funny moments involving ketoconazole shampoo and a very confused patient. Inside this episode: What female pattern hair loss actually is (and why it’s different from male pattern baldness) The signs dermatologists look for during scalp examination and trichoscopy Why hair loss in women is often dismissed for too long The role of hormones, genetics, thyroid health, stress and menopause Iron, ferritin, zinc and vitamin D: the blood tests that really matter Why “hair vitamins” aren’t always the answer How dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis can affect scalp health and hair growth The truth about minoxidil, including the “dread shed” Oral minoxidil, spironolactone, finasteride and other medical treatments PRP, microneedling, laser-assisted delivery and LED helmets, what does the evidence actually say? Why postpartum hair shedding can sometimes uncover underlying female pattern hair loss When thinning hair could signal something more serious This episode is for anyone who has ever looked at their hairbrush, widened parting or thinning ponytail and wondered: is this normal and what can I do about it? Follow & Connect with us ⬇️ YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    37 mins
  • Retinoids Explained: Myths, Purging, Irritation & How to Use Them Properly

    Retinoids Explained: Myths, Purging, Irritation & How to Use Them Properly
    May 7 2026
    Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it? From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths, like whether they thin your skin or cause inflammation. Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid give you a step-by-step guide to using prescription retinoids safely and effectively. What You’ll Learn in This Episode: Do retinoids thin the skin? (Spoiler: no. This episode covers what they actually do) The difference between retinol vs prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene Why retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing and acne What “retinization” and retinoid dermatitis really looks like How to manage: What purging is (and how long it lasts) Why your skin might react differently in cold UK weather The biggest skincare mistake: combining retinoids with exfoliating acids Why SPF is essential when using retinoids How to Use Retinoids (Dermatologist-Approved Routine) A step-by-step approach to minimise irritation: Apply to dry skin (wait 20–30 minutes after washing) Avoid sensitive areas (corners of nose, mouth, eyes) Start slowly and build consistency Use the “moisturiser sandwich” technique if needed Try short-contact therapy for sensitive skin Keep your routine simple—avoid over-exfoliating Retinoid Side Effects Explained Retinoid dermatitis: dry, red, flaky patches (often around nose/mouth) Purging: temporary breakouts as skin turnover increases Sensitivity changes due to environment, illness, or product changes Products mentioned: La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Avène Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream Peptide-based moisturisers (barrier-supporting) Hydrocolloid spot patches (zit stickers) Niacinamide (around 4%) serums ⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠ Follow & Connect with us ⬇️ YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ Send in your questions! Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    31 mins
  • What's Really In Your Shampoo?

    What's Really In Your Shampoo?
    Apr 30 2026
    In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid tell us absolutely everything we need to know about shampoo and what it is doing to our scalps. They answer all our most-asked questions on choosing the right shampoo and preventing and fixing scalp issues, as well as how to avoid over-spending. This includes: What is a shampoo and what is it made of? What are the main ingredients in shampoo? Should you trust shampoos that contain ingredients like argan oil, naiacinimide, caffeine or hyaluronic acid? Marketing tricks that shampoo manufacturers use What the thickness of your shampoo actually means What you should know if you have a sensitive scalp (SLS warning, eczema and psoriasis) Pacifying agents…what are they and what do they do to your shampoo? How does the pearlesence, color and texture of shampoo actually impact its effectiveness? Which medicated shampoos are best (Nizoral 2% Keotconical shampoo)? How to deal with dandruff scale and itch (including amazing studies that show promising results) Top tips for protecting your hair and scalp when using strong ingredients How the temperature of your shower affects your hair What everyone should know about the 'No-Poo’ movement (aka hair training) Products mentioned: Head & Shoulders Classic Clean Shampoo Nizoral Anti Dandruff Shampoo 2% Ketoconazole Sam McKnight Shampoo Pureology Hydrate Shampoo Send in your questions! ahsc@raconteur.tv Watch us on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Follow & Connect with us on socials ⬇️ Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    30 mins
  • Melasma: Causes, Treatment & Why SPF Matters More Than Anything

    Melasma: Causes, Treatment & Why SPF Matters More Than Anything
    Apr 23 2026
    Melasma can be one of the most frustrating skin conditions to treat and one of the easiest to accidentally make worse. In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid take a deep dive into melasma, a common but often misunderstood form of hyperpigmentation. Emma and Ellie explore why melasma develops, why it’s so persistent, and the critical role that sun exposure, hormones, and genetics play in triggering and maintaining it. From pregnancy-related pigmentation to the impact of visible light (not just UV), this episode explains why managing melasma requires a long-term, consistent approach, not quick fixes. You’ll learn: What’s happening in the skin in melasma Why melanocytes become overactive and long-lasting The role of UV radiation and visible light Why daily sunscreen is the most effective prevention strategy Evidence-based treatments including hydroquinone, tretinoin, and azelaic acid When oral or topical tranexamic acid may be used The limits of over-the-counter skincare Why laser and light treatments must be approached with caution They also share practical advice on managing melasma day-to-day, including realistic expectations and ways to minimise its appearance. Key takeaway: Melasma is manageable but only if you consistently address the root cause, especially UV exposure. Follow & Connect with us ⬇️ YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    29 mins
  • Vitamin D, Sunlight & Skin Health: How Much Do You Really Need?

    Vitamin D, Sunlight & Skin Health: How Much Do You Really Need?
    Apr 16 2026
    How much sun do you actually need for vitamin D? Does SPF block vitamin D production? And can low vitamin D cause hair loss? In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explore the science behind vitamin D, its role in skin and overall health, and the truth about sun exposure. From medical guidance to common myths about SPF and vitamin D deficiency, they break down what the evidence actually says, and what it means for your daily routine. You’ll learn: How vitamin D is produced in the skin (and why UVB matters) Why most people in the UK need supplements in winter How much sun exposure is enough and why more isn’t better Whether sunscreen affects vitamin D levels The best dietary sources of vitamin D Safe supplementation and dosing Why sunbeds are not a safe option The link between vitamin D deficiency and hair loss Emerging research on vitamin D, inflammation, and immune health Emma and Ellie also discuss large-scale clinical studies exploring vitamin D’s potential role in reducing autoimmune disease risk and improving health outcomes. 💡 Key takeaway: You don’t need prolonged sun exposure for vitamin D and supplements are often the safest and most effective option. ⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠ Follow & Connect with us ⬇️ YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ Send us your questions! ⬆️ Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    18 mins
  • The Truth About Fillers: Risks, Migration, Dissolving & Safety | Consultant Dermatologist Advice

    The Truth About Fillers: Risks, Migration, Dissolving & Safety | Consultant Dermatologist Advice
    Apr 9 2026
    Thinking about dermal fillers? In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, London Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down everything you need to know about facial fillers, from benefits to serious risks. As two leading experts, they get questions both in-clinic and out. In this video, they answer your most asked questions on fillers: What are dermal fillers and how do they work? Do fillers dissolve or migrate over time? The truth about hyaluronic acid fillers vs biostimulatory fillers (Sculptra, Radiesse) Can filler be reversed safely? The risks of hyaluronidase Real complications: granulomas, biofilms, and long-term filler presence Can filler cause “pillow face” or stretch your skin? Is filler safe and who should you trust to inject it? UK regulations: why anyone can inject fillers and what to look for (CE / UKCA marking) Rare but serious risks: vascular occlusion, tissue death, and blindness Plus: Would Emma and Ellie have filler themselves? This episode is essential listening if you’re considering cosmetic injectables and want evidence-based, medically qualified, un-biased advice. 📍 Recorded in Central London 📩 Send your questions via Instagram or email YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ ⚠️ This podcast is for information only and not a substitute for medical advice Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    28 mins
  • The Truth About Injectable Moisturisers & Skin Boosters: Do They Really Work?

    The Truth About Injectable Moisturisers & Skin Boosters: Do They Really Work?
    Apr 2 2026
    In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack one of the most talked-about trends in aesthetic dermatology: injectable moisturisers, also known as skin boosters. They're marketed as the secret to glass skin, deep hydration, and radiant glow...but are they actually worth it? We break down the science behind hyaluronic acid injections, how they differ from traditional dermal fillers, and what the evidence really shows when it comes to hydration, skin quality, and long-term results. You’ll learn: What “injectable moisturisers” actually are How skin boosters differ from fillers Whether they improve hydration, texture, and wrinkles How long results last (and why maintenance is key) The truth about treatments like Profilo and polynucleotides Risks, side effects, and what to expect after treatment Whether they’re worth the time, cost, and attention they get Emma and Ellie also discuss the limitations of current research, the role of marketing in aesthetic treatments, and why these procedures should never replace a solid skincare routine. 💡 Key takeaway: Skin boosters may offer temporary hydration and glow...but they are not a substitute for medical-grade skincare or more targeted treatments. Follow & Connect: ⁠www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠ Email: ⁠ahsc@raconteur.tv⁠ Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    22 mins
  • The Truth About Cleansers: Are You Damaging Your Skin Without Realising? (Dermatologists Explain)

    The Truth About Cleansers: Are You Damaging Your Skin Without Realising? (Dermatologists Explain)
    Mar 26 2026
    Cleansing should be simple... but it's so easy to get wrong. In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain how choosing the wrong cleanser can damage your skin barrier, trigger eczema, worsen acne and rosacea, and leave your skin feeling dry, tight or irritated. With so many options, from oil cleansers and micellar water to salicylic acid and exfoliating cleansers, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. The messaging can be unclear and complicated - what difference do additional ingredients and their so-called 'added-benefits' actually make? It is all just skincare marketing...? This episode breaks down what's actually important whne it comes ot choosing the right cleanser for your skin type - based on the science of skincare and according to skin health experts. Emma and Ellie also explore how factors like hard water in the UK and over-cleansing can impact your skin. If your skin isn’t behaving the way you want it to, your cleanser might just be the problem, so we're here to help. In this episode we cover: How the wrong cleanser can worsen eczema, acne and rosacea The truth about double cleansing and oil cleansers Why “squeaky clean” skin is a red flag The difference between gentle vs harsh surfactants (SLS) How hard water in the UK affects your skin Whether you should cleanse your face in the morning The dermatologist-approved way to cleanse properly Key takeaway: The best cleanser removes dirt and SPF without disrupting your skin barrier. Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin Follow & Connect: AHSC YouTube Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic Email: ahsc@raconteur.tv Producer: Ella Blaxill Exec: Eve Streeter Music by Simon Elms. This is a Raconteur Studios Production. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices
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    28 mins