This episode comprises two interviews: firstly, with a labour rights researcher about what the rise of Shein, the global online fast fashion behemoth expanding at a dizzying rate, mean for workers in its home base in southern China? And Clean Clothes' Regional Urgent Appeals Coordinator for Southeast Asia, Niki Gamara, talks campaign cases and strategy, and how past victories can inspire in the face of new challenges. Links & contacts Griffith Review: griffithreview.com Matthew Abud (producer): tasi-sound@proton.me Clean Clothes Campaign: cleanclothes.org Bangladesh Accord: bangladeshaccord.org Patch Pheasant (bass player): patrickpheasant@yahoo.com.au Transcript Researcher: Um, okay, I'm I'm trying to frame it in a way that it doesn't compromise uh, security. Um, so let's put it that way, um, so I, I used to work in a, um... Oh, wait, I'm sorry. Uh, I'm still trying to figure out how should I frame it. Um... I think I'm just going to go with a researcher of labour rights in China. So, many years back, we used to do a bunch of field works. Sometimes we'd reach out with uh, factory workers, workers from the service sector in China. It was around 2020 or 2021 when we were approached by a Europe-based online media who was draw attention to this, whole thing called Shein. And at that time we didn't know anything about Shein. So we we were not knowledgeable about it at all. But and then, with a little bit of research we come to understand that is like the up and coming fast fashion brand. Well, we eventually found not only one manufacturer, but actually villages of small manufacturers producing for Shein, family run small manufacturers of no more than five or 10 persons scattering around what we called urban villages in a few cities in South China, primarily Guangzhou. These kind of small manufacturers, even for us, as well as for basically organizations that had been working on workers' rights in China, it is kind of a new territory. For Shein, what they do is basically an online platform that the factory just logs in and get informed what kind of orders that they have been given. So in effect, uh, do not have to like send a person over here and oversee how you're producing. They really just have to, like, hand out the orders as well as all the specifications online and let you know, hey, you've got to procure fabrics from here, procure the buttons from here, and then you have to produce in in this way. I'm going to give you a basic specification, and then you have to produce it for me. It is really, really far from having an actual managerial staff coming over and giving you orders. Even for the skilled workers, there are a lot of downsides. Uh, for example, not having social security. That's actually one of them. And uh not having a stable source of income. Their income is really dependent of how much order is coming that is coming in. So, basically no job security at all. They usually have to work really, really long hour, even though it even though for them it appears to be a choice of themselves. But, yeah, 11, 12, 13 hours is very commonplace. It's somewhat similar to, for example, like ride platforms or like food delivery platforms. If you want to put it this way, it it's kind of similar. Because they can cut your order afterwards if you're not meeting their requirements this time. So it is a very unstable kind of employment. Garment sector as a whole is experiencing a shift in China as well. Um large factories that are moving out from at least South China. Many of them are moving to Southeast Asia, and some of them are moving to other provinces. So garment workers who used to have a stable job in a large factories, who are many of them 50 or 60 years old at this point, are losing their jobs. So they face a dilemma right now. Are they going to move to other places for work, or are they going to stay in this same city for jobs they have not done for the past decades? Or are they coming over to the Shein factories to at least put some of the experience in use? This is a little bit sensitive, so if you want to publish it, you have to let me know first and you probably have to let me know how you edit it. 10 years ago, it is still a time in South China where strikes still happen and strikes are sizable enough to be reported, to be known outside. But right now, we're not seeing any of those. So we're still seeing some of those who got really fed up with the situation and went on, like, a wildcat strike. Uh, but they're much less sizable, and the censorship of all those wildcat strikes that comes and goes is really heavy and it is really making it difficult for people to know that hey, this is still going on. And I think it's really key because in recent years, we're seeing way, way less people who have faith in actual labour movements. And of course, the crackdowns on organizations who used to be really supportive of labour movement, it kind of takes away the places for exchange of opinions...
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