Most visitors to Jerusalem know the Old City's three quarters — Jewish, Muslim, Christian. But there's a fourth: the Armenian Quarter, home to a community that's been on this ground since the 4th century. This episode traces the Armenians' remarkable story — from being the first nation to adopt Christianity, to surviving genocide in 1915, to building the first printing press in the Middle East. We examine the current crisis: a community that has shrunk from 20,000 to perhaps 1,500 people, a school with fewer than 100 students, and a contentious land dispute over a plot called the Cow Garden that has exposed deep internal fractures. How does a community survive when neutrality is impossible?
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