Of Canoes and Crocodiles
Paddling the Sepik in Papua New Guinea
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Of Canoes and Crocodiles
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Narrated by:
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James Denas
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Written by:
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Tony Robinson-Smith
Of Canoes and Crocodiles is a story of adventure in the remote and threatened landscapes of Papua New Guinea. In 2018, Tony Robinson-Smith and his wife Nadya Ladouceur bought dugout canoes and paddled down the Sepik, the country's longest river. Traveling with local guides and staying in their villages, Tony and Nadya ate smoked piranha and sago pancakes, heard tales of river gods and sorcerers, marvelled at rainbow bee-eaters and cat-size flying foxes, sank in a tropical storm, got lost in mosquito-infested swamplands, and hid from pirates in mangroves near the sea. As the narrative follows the bends of the river, Robinson-Smith incorporates into its flow descriptions of crocodile initiation rites, village "big men," the barter system, raskolism, and sing-sings. He reflects on clan loyalty, colonization, Christian missionaries, bride price, the environmental impacts of foreign logging and mining, and the joys and fears of following the current down a long, snaky jungle river in a volatile Melanesian country.
©2026 Tony Robinson-Smith (P)2026 University of Alberta PressCritic Reviews
“Tony Robinson-Smith and his wife, Nadya, paddle down the Sepik River in Papua New Guinea, traveling through a jungle environment inhabited by villagers and raskols (bandits). The resulting story, filled with anecdotes, entertains and educates. Of Canoes and Crocodiles is a captivating read for armchair adventurers and explorers alike.” — Ken McGoogan, whose latest book is Shadows of Tyranny
“This expedition is filled with humour, suspense, and careful observation, offering a unique glimpse into this lesser-known region—a must-read for travel enthusiasts.” — Ken Haigh, author of On Foot to Canterbury
“The point of travel is to see, smell and taste a different world. Of Canoes and Crocodiles achieves this with humour and meticulous note-taking. The couple set out to cover the 1,126-kilometre Sepik River by dugout canoe. ‘It will be dangerous,’ warns one villager. ‘You should not go alone,’ says another. They carry no firearms but 20 cans of tuna, instant coffee and mosquito netting. The result: Of Canoes and Crocodiles is the best of travel writing, rich and vivid.” — Holly Doan, Blacklock’s Reporte