• 24. Colour: The Spectroscope and Selective Absorption in Gems
    Feb 16 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of gemmology, focusing on the spectroscope and its critical role in identifying gemstones. They discuss the different types of spectroscopes, techniques for using them, and the importance of diagnostic spectra in gem identification. The conversation is rich with insights into the nuances of color absorption and the practical applications of these tools in the field. The hosts also share personal anecdotes and tips for gem enthusiasts, making the episode both informative and engaging.


    Takeaways

    The spectroscope is essential for identifying gemstones.

    There are two main types of handheld spectroscopes: prism and diffraction grating.

    Using a spectroscope can help you understand how gemstones absorb light.

    Techniques for using a spectroscope include transmitted and reflected light methods.

    Diagnostic spectra are crucial for identifying specific gemstones.

    Understanding colour absorption helps in gem identification.

    The spectroscope can be used on both rough and polished stones.

    Learning the diagnostic spectra of gemstones is beneficial for gemmologists.

    The conversation emphasises the importance of practical experience in gemmology.

    Future episodes will cover more advanced topics in gemmology.


    "We're going to talk about the spectroscope."

    "It's a really good one."

    "You can't see it, but it's there."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Recent Finds

    02:06 Exploring the Spectroscope: A Gemmologist's Tool

    11:16 Understanding Dispersion and Diffraction in Gemstones

    18:39 Techniques for Using the Spectroscope

    22:31 Diagnostic Spectra and Their Importance

    26:53 The Art of Writing and Dashes

    29:41 Understanding Spectrums: Zircon and Ruby

    32:18 Emerald and Alexandrite Spectrums

    35:03 Synthetic and Natural Sapphires

    37:28 Exploring Iron Spectrums in Gemstones

    40:03 The Spectrum of Garnets and Jadeite

    42:42 Cobalt Spectrums: Spinel and Glass

    45:31 Rare Earth Elements and Red Glass

    47:59 Diamonds and Their Unique Spectra


    gemmology, spectroscope, gemstones, diagnostic spectra, colour absorption, gem identification, gemmology techniques, gem enthusiasts, gem collectors, gemstone analysis, gemology



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    53 mins
  • 23. Colour: An introduction
    Feb 9 2026

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    In this episode of the Facet nation gemmology podcast, Lucinda and Simon explore the intricate world of colour in gemstones. They discuss the significance of colour in determining the value of gemstones, the science of light and how it interacts with materials to create colour, and the chemical elements responsible for these hues. The conversation also covers the colour wheel and its relevance to gemstones, the methods of analysing gemstones through spectroscopy, and the perception of colour. The episode concludes with a teaser for future discussions on more complex topics related to colour in gemmology.


    Takeaways

    Colour is the most important aspect of coloured gemstones.

    The value of gemstones is influenced by colour, history, and trends.

    Light is essential for colour perception in gemstones.

    Selective absorption determines the colour we see in gemstones.

    Eight chemical elements are responsible for colour in gemstones.

    The colour wheel helps understand colour relationships in gemstones.

    Not all light sources are suitable for gemstone analysis.

    Spectroscopy is a key tool in analysing gemstone colours.

    Understanding the science of colour enhances appreciation for gemstones.

    Future episodes will explore more complex topics in gemmology.


    Titles

    Exploring the Colour Spectrum of Gemstones

    The Science Behind Gemstone Colours


    Sound bites

    "Everything comes back to light."

    "Not all white light is created equal."

    "If there is no light, does colour exist?"


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology

    01:50 The Importance of Colour in Gemstones

    04:34 Understanding Light and Colour

    09:11 Chemical Elements and Colour

    12:29 The Colour Wheel and Its Application

    16:15 Spectroscopy and Light Sources

    21:16 Conclusion and Future Topics


    gemstones, colour, light, spectroscopy, chemical elements, colour wheel, gemmology, ruby, sapphire, emerald

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    25 mins
  • 22. Interview: Justin Prim - gemcutter, author, teacher and historian
    Feb 2 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books.

    Find out more:
    https://www.magusgems.com
    https://www.facetingapprentice.com

    Takeaways

    Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting.

    He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show.

    Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting.

    Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut.

    The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail.

    Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters.

    Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting.

    He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum.

    The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones.

    Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters.


    Titles

    From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey

    The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim


    Sound bites

    "I want to keep cutting."

    "I love cutting emeralds."

    "It's a mystery."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

    01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting

    05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade

    09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community

    11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary

    14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting

    16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School

    20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting

    23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business

    25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone

    27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems

    29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting

    31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques

    33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation

    36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum

    38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching

    42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques

    47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting

    52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones

    54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds

    56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer

    58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making

    01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones

    01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations


    gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum

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    1 hr and 7 mins
  • 21. Interview: Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury. Montana Sapphires and more
    Jan 26 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones.

    Takeaways

    Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him.

    Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires.

    Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities.

    The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations.

    Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market.

    The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences.

    Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones.

    There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones.

    Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations.

    The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance.

    Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone.

    Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion.

    The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco.

    Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs.

    Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones.

    Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal.

    Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones.

    Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography.

    The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love.

    Titles

    The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman

    Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery


    Sound bites

    "I try to minimise the waste."

    "They look awesome."

    "I love all gems equally."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

    03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology

    08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution

    12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution

    19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery

    23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones

    27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines

    29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires

    31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting

    33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration

    37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs

    42:38 The World of Photomicrography

    47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year

    49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography

    52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature

    53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology

    56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book

    58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining


    gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem trends, American gemstones, gem cutting, jewelry design, photomicrography, gemstone

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    1 hr and 2 mins
  • 20. The Refractometer: Gem testing and how it works
    Jan 19 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology.


    Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool.



    Keywords

    gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science



    Takeaways

    The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones.

    Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings.

    Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer.

    Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results.

    Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer.



    Titles

    Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists

    Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer


    Sound bites

    "Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon."

    "Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard."

    "When in doubt, get your refractometer out."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer

    01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance

    04:53 How the Refractometer Works

    10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing

    14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings

    19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance

    22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones

    25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials

    28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques

    32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer

    36:29 House Rules for Refractometry

    41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use


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    45 mins
  • 19. Gemmology Exam Preparation: What to expect
    Jan 12 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates.


    Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety.

    Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding.

    Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best.

    Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding.

    Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge.

    Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision.

    Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance.

    The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed.

    It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge.

    Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety.


    Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience

    Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights


    Sound bites

    "I was really worried about the practical."

    "You can get two wrong and still pass."

    "I still have dreams about it."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety

    02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams

    05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam

    07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques

    10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology

    13:27 Tips for Early Preparation

    15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision

    18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers

    21:29 Final Week Preparations

    24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset

    32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges

    37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies

    41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections

    51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety

    55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates

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    57 mins
  • 18. The Best Kept Secrets of Spinel
    Jan 5 2026

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    Summary

    In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of spinel, a gemstone often overshadowed by rubies and sapphires. They discuss its chemical composition, colour variations, and historical significance, as well as the modern rise of synthetic spinel. The conversation delves into the properties that make spinel a desirable choice for jewellery, its unique inclusions, and the testing methods used to identify it. The hosts also highlight famous spinels throughout history, emphasising the gemstone's newfound recognition and value in the gemological community.

    Takeaways

    Spinel is often confused with rubies and sapphires due to its similar appearance.

    The chemical composition of spinel is magnesium aluminum oxide.
    Spinel comes in a variety of colors, including red, blue, and black.

    Spinel is a durable gemstone, making it suitable for everyday wear.

    Historically, spinel was often misidentified as ruby, leading to its nickname 'balast ruby.'

    The Mahenge region of Tanzania produces some of the most valuable spinels.

    Spinel crystals can form in octahedral shapes, similar to diamonds.

    Synthetic spinel is produced using the Verneuil flame fusion method.

    Testing spinel involves using a refractometer to determine its refractive index.
    Famous spinels include the Black Prince's Ruby and the Timur Ruby.

    Chapters

    00:00 New Year, New Beginnings
    02:07 The Allure of Spinel
    03:47 Understanding Spinel's Composition
    07:59 The Color Spectrum of Spinel
    10:55 Spinel Crystals and Their Formation
    14:08 Historical Significance and Modern Sources
    17:59 Inclusions and Unique Features of Spinel
    18:58 Identifying Spinel vs. Other Stones
    24:06 Synthetic Spinel: The Modern Challenge
    30:11 Introduction to Spinels and Spectroscopy
    34:03 Understanding Spinel Spectra
    35:40 Famous Spinels: The Black Prince's Ruby
    38:06 The Historical Significance of Spinels
    41:29 The Sumerian Spinel: Myths and Legends
    44:32 The Cote de Bretagne Spinel: A Unique Jewel
    47:10 The Modern Recognition of Spinels

    Keywords
    Spinel, gemstones, gemology, inclusions, synthetic spinel, colour spectrum, historical significance, identification, properties, testing, gemmology


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    43 mins
  • 17. Interview: Rosie Young. Lab Gemmology and all things Sunstone
    Dec 22 2025

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Simon and Lucinda chat with Rosie Young, a lab gemologist at GCS Lab. Rosie shares her journey from a tax advisor to a passionate gemmologist, discussing her education, experiences, and the day-to-day operations in a gem lab. The conversation delves into the fascinating world of sunstones, including their unique properties, treatments, and the science behind their colours. Rosie also highlights her research on sunstones and the importance of spreading awareness about this beautiful gemstone. The episode concludes with insights into the gem market and the joy of discovering new gemstones.


    Takeaways

    Rosie transitioned from tax advising to gemmology, pursuing her passion.

    She graduated with a BSc in Gemmology and started working at GCS Lab.

    Lab gemmology involves analysing gemstones using advanced equipment.

    Sunstones are a unique and under-appreciated gemstone.

    Copper-bearing sunstones come primarily from Oregon.

    Diffusion treatment can alter the appearance of gemstones.

    Color zoning in sunstones is a fascinating phenomenon.

    Rosie enjoys sharing her knowledge about gemstones with others.

    The gem market is constantly evolving with new trends.

    Sunstones have a variety of localities and unique characteristics.


    Titles

    Exploring the World of Gemmology with Rosie Young

    The Journey from Tax Advisor to Gemmologist


    Sound Bites

    "I always loved gems as a kid."

    "It's worked out really well for me."

    "I would just be happy for it."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

    04:39 Rosie's Journey into Gemmology

    07:06 Educational Experiences in Gemmology

    09:43 Internship at GIA and Research Focus

    12:19 Working at GCS Lab: Daily Operations

    15:11 Lab Equipment and Techniques

    17:33 Trends in Gemstone Submissions

    20:18 Favourite Gemstones and Unique Finds

    22:46 Research on Sunstones and Their Varieties

    26:14 The Quest for Sunstone Knowledge

    27:18 Origins of Sunstones

    28:25 Locality Preferences and Unique Characteristics

    28:59 Copper-Bearing Sunstones: A Comparative Analysis

    30:48 Colour Zoning in Oregon Sunstone

    33:29 Copper Diffusion Experiments

    36:29 The Science Behind Diffusion Treatments

    38:15 Identifying Diffusion-Treated Stones

    42:23 Personal Connections to Sunstone

    44:59 Exploring the World of Sunstones

    47:34 Inspiration from Gemstones

    48:25 Holiday Greetings and Future Plans


    Keywords


    gemmology, sunstone, lab gemmology, gemstone treatments, GCS Lab, Rosie Young, gem education, gemstone analysis, gem certification, gem market trends

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    50 mins