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This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones.

End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.

We will be back, enjoy your summer

key topics
Diamond designing and marking
Dividing and cleaving methods
Shaping and faceting techniques
Polishing and final finishing
Tools and equipment used in gem cutting

Mastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant
The Art and Science of Gemstone Faceting


sound bites
"Only diamond can cut a diamond"
"Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes"
"Start with the pavilion, then the crown"


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing
02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds
05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds
08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds
10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting
13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles
15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams
21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives
24:49 The Faceting Process Begins
28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing
32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets
36:58 Final Steps and Reflections
39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Up

resources
Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com
Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com
Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+design


Instagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_si

diamond manufacturing, gemmology, faceting, cutting techniques, gemstone design, diamond polishing, gemmology course, gemstone tools, gemmology education

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In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike.

key topics
Gemstone cutting terminology
Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing
Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions
Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations
Practical tips for evaluating rough stones

Gem Cutting Vocabulary
Diamond Manufacturing Process
Gemstone Cut Optimization

Review gemstone terminology regularly
Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting
Explore historical gem cutting techniques


Titles
Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights
The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guide


sound bites
"The old mine cut has a rich history."
"Inlays and carvings add artistic value."
"A break in gem cutting is coming soon."


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones
03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts
05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts
08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones
11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning
13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones
16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting
19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture
21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting
24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting
27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting
29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History
32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features
34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones
36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison
38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts
40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting
44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques
46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic Expressions

The V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gems
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/


guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

gemmology, gemstone cutting, gem fashioning, gemmology exam, gem cutter, gemstone shapes, diamond manufacturing, gemmology history, gemstone grading, jewellery industry

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Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode.

Precision gem cutting techniques
Tools and machinery for faceting
Design principles for gemstones
Materials used in gem cutting
The journey of a gem cutter


Guest name
Michelle Mai


Titles
Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration
The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Mai


sound bites
"Equipment is a huge barrier to entry"
"Polishing quartz is challenging for me"
"Start with cabochons to learn the basics"


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting
08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting
10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery
13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting
15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting
18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials
21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs
24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance
27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs
29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques
32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations
35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting
37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective
39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting
44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters
51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Arts

resources
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/
Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/
Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/


guest links
Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMai
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/

gem cutting, gemmology, precision faceting, gemstone design, gem tools, gemstone materials, gem industry, gem education

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In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone.


Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types.
San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining.
The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline.
Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market.
The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death.
Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations.
Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones.
Historical context enhances the value of gemstones.
Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them.
Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours.
Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed.
Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour.
Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type.
The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market.
Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity.
Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation.
Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba.
Famous tourmalines often have historical significance.
The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty.

The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone Journey
Unveiling San Diego's Gemstone Secrets
The Legacy of the Dowager Empress Cixi
Tourmaline: From Mine to Market


"She banned foot binding."
"It's a serious bottleneck."
"It's called Heitorita."
"It looks like stained glass."


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two
02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History
05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline
17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market
18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques
22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations
25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline
26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline
30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value
34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline
38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline
39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance
42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beauty

tourmaline, gemstones, San Diego, Dowager Empress Cixi, gemmology, pink tourmaline, gemstone testing, history, gem market, California tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, gemstone treatment, colour variations, gemmology, gemstone value, geological origins, famous gemstones, Liddicoat tourmaline

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Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike.

key topics

Charge transfer in gemstones

Colour centres and defects

Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour

Titles

The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained

Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours

sound bites

"Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions."

"Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology

02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones

05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer

08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story

10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition

16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds

22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds

25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds

27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds

30:48 Exploring Colour Centers in Diamonds

35:28 The Future of Gemmology and Podcasting

resources

Gem-A Gemmology Course - https://gem-a.com/education

Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

gemmology, gemstone colour, charge transfer, sapphire, diamond, heat treatment, colour centres, spectroscopy, mineralogy

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Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon.

Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series
Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks
Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features
Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity
Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmology

Simon and Lucinda

Titles
The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals
Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Lore

sound bites
"Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue."
"Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline."
"Rubellite is a deep, moody red."

Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates
04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement
08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview
12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline
17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline
20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline
24:17 Formation of Tourmaline
29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline
36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique Qualities

Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

tourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions

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This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips.


Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour
Valency states of transition metals and their effects
Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue
Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones
Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemology


Energy transfer in electrons
Valency and atomic environment influence on colour
Colour change effect in gemstones


Review the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection
Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence
Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colors


The Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments
Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light


"Light as packets of energy excite electrons."
"Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour."
"Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence."


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour
05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour
08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour
10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations
13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change
16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour
18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects
21:25 Conclusion and Future Topics

resources

Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
Spectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.com
Simon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/

gemmology, gemstone colour, dispersed metal ions, valency, atomic environment, luminescence, gemstone spectroscopy, Alexandrite, ruby, emerald

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This week we are joined by Ian Dun, president of the Gemological Association of Australia. Discover insights into gemstone grading, Australian gemstones, and the future of gemological research. Of Particular interest is GAA's, world first, Opal Studies Course. Come and listen to find out all you need to know.

key topics
Gemological education and certification in Australia
Australian gemstones: Opal, Sapphire, and more
Advances in gemstone grading and identification

guest name
Ian Dun

Titles
Unlocking the Secrets of Gemmology with Ian Dun
Australian Gemstones: A Deep Dive into Opal and More

sound bites
"Welcome to Facet Nation, a gemmology podcast."
"Opal is misunderstood and polarizing."
"Australian opal is my favourite gemstone."


Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet Nation and Ian Dun
01:52 Ian Dun's Gem Story and Career Path
08:49 The Gemological Association of Australia: History and Courses
12:55 Diploma of Diamond Technology and Practical Grading
21:42 The Online Opal Course: Development and Purpose
23:39 The Journey of Opal: From Mine to Market
27:36 Understanding the Opal Course: Structure and Feedback
29:21 The Allure of Opal: Personal Perspectives
34:19 Opal's Renaissance: Trends and Design Innovations
38:19 Research and Future of Opal Studies
40:39 Exploring Other Australian Gemstones
52:32 The Future of Gemmology: Education and Career Paths

Resources
Gemological Association of Australia - https://www.gem.org.au/

Opal Course - https://www.gem.org.au/courses/opal-studies/

CIBJO Opal Guide - https://www.cibjo.org/

keywords
gemmology, gemstones, Australian gemstones, gemstone grading, gemmological education, opal, diamond, jewellery design, opal study, education

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