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In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones.

Takeaways

Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him.

Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires.

Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities.

The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations.

Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market.

The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences.

Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones.

There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones.

Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations.

The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance.

Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone.

Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion.

The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco.

Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs.

Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones.

Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal.

Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones.

Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography.

The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love.

Titles

The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman

Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery

Sound bites

"I try to minimise the waste."

"They look awesome."

"I love all gems equally."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology

08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution

12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution

19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery

23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones

27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines

29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires

31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting

33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration

37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs

42:38 The World of Photomicrography

47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year

49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography

52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature

53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology

56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book

58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining

gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem trends, American gemstones, gem cutting, jewelry design, photomicrography, gemstone

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In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology.

Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool.

Keywords

gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science

Takeaways

The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones.

Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings.

Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer.

Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results.

Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer.

Titles

Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists

Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer

Sound bites

"Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon."

"Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard."

"When in doubt, get your refractometer out."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer

01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance

04:53 How the Refractometer Works

10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing

14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings

19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance

22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones

25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials

28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques

32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer

36:29 House Rules for Refractometry

41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use

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In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates.

Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety.

Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding.

Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best.

Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding.

Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge.

Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision.

Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance.

The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed.

It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge.

Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety.

Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience

Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights

Sound bites

"I was really worried about the practical."

"You can get two wrong and still pass."

"I still have dreams about it."

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety

02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams

05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam

07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques

10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology

13:27 Tips for Early Preparation

15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision

18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers

21:29 Final Week Preparations

24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset

32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges

37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies

41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections

51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety

55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates