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Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Written by: Facet Nation
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About this listen

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

© 2026 Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast
Nature & Ecology Science
Episodes
  • 21. Interview: Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury. Montana Sapphires and more
    Jan 26 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones.

    Takeaways

    Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him.

    Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires.

    Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities.

    The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations.

    Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market.

    The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences.

    Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones.

    There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones.

    Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations.

    The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance.

    Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone.

    Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion.

    The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco.

    Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs.

    Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones.

    Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal.

    Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones.

    Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography.

    The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love.

    Titles

    The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman

    Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery


    Sound bites

    "I try to minimise the waste."

    "They look awesome."

    "I love all gems equally."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction

    03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology

    08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution

    12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution

    19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery

    23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones

    27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines

    29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires

    31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting

    33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration

    37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs

    42:38 The World of Photomicrography

    47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year

    49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography

    52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature

    53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology

    56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book

    58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining


    gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem trends, American gemstones, gem cutting, jewelry design, photomicrography, gemstone

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    1 hr and 2 mins
  • 20. The Refractometer: Gem testing and how it works
    Jan 19 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology.


    Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool.



    Keywords

    gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science



    Takeaways

    The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones.

    Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings.

    Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer.

    Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results.

    Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer.



    Titles

    Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists

    Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer


    Sound bites

    "Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon."

    "Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard."

    "When in doubt, get your refractometer out."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer

    01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance

    04:53 How the Refractometer Works

    10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing

    14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings

    19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance

    22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones

    25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials

    28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques

    32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer

    36:29 House Rules for Refractometry

    41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use


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    45 mins
  • 19. Gemmology Exam Preparation: What to expect
    Jan 12 2026

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    In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates.


    Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety.

    Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding.

    Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best.

    Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding.

    Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge.

    Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision.

    Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance.

    The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed.

    It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge.

    Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety.


    Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience

    Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights


    Sound bites

    "I was really worried about the practical."

    "You can get two wrong and still pass."

    "I still have dreams about it."


    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety

    02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams

    05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam

    07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques

    10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology

    13:27 Tips for Early Preparation

    15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision

    18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers

    21:29 Final Week Preparations

    24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset

    32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges

    37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies

    41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections

    51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety

    55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates

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    57 mins
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