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Have Toga, Will Travel: Exploring Greece and Rome, Ancient and Modern

Have Toga, Will Travel: Exploring Greece and Rome, Ancient and Modern

Written by: Emily Jusino PhD (Classics) and Cam Hawkins PhD (Ancient History)
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A podcast exploring the Mediterranean world, ancient and modern, through the eyes of two former Classics professors. Join Emily and Cam as they chat about all things Ancient Greek and Roman and share their own adventures exploring the Mediterranean world through history, travel, literature, and film. We release new episodes on or about the 1st and 15th of every month. https://havetogawilltravel.comCopyright 2025 Emily Jusino and Cam Hawkins Social Sciences Travel Writing & Commentary World
Episodes
  • Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway

    Hadrian’s Wall, Part IV: Walking from Birdoswald to Bowness-on-Solway
    Jun 1 2026
    Emily and Cam wrap up their series on hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path with a discussion of the final 31 miles of the Wall. Follow along as they explore medieval monuments made of wallstone, find themselves treed by some cows, and are regaled with tales of cannibals (human and otherwise!).Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:https://havetogawilltravel.comRead the first post in our series of blog posts on Hadrian’s Wall here:Hiking Hadrian’s Wall, Part IIf you’re interested in hiking the Wall, you’ll find the following resources helpful:Walking Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Mark Richards (Cicerone Press)Hadrian’s Wall Path, by Anthony Burton (National Trails Official Guidebook)Harvey Maps, Map of Hadrian’s Wall PathFinally, you’ll find the rest of the episodes in this series at the following links:Hadrian’s Wall, Part I: The Romans in Britain and the Imperial FrontierHadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to CarrawburghHadrian’s Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)----------00:11 - Introduction00:24 - Episode overview01:11 - Housekeeping and Summer vacation02:41 - Birdoswald to Haytongate03:16 - The character of the trail and the last visible elements of the Wall05:44 - Honesty Boxes and the Haytongate Hut06:56 - Lanercost Priory07:22 - A priory built of wallstone: the history of Lanercost10:52 - Exploring Lanercost (and our encounter with Max)12:24 - Haytongate to Carlisle12:46 - An unpleasant encounter with cows14:37 - “Where’s the Wall,” or the perils of starting in the west15:55 - Crosby on Eden, haggis, and black pudding17:59 - The Wall at the River Eden: Uxelodunum and Milecastle 6618:27 - Carlisle18:56 - Carlisle Castle: Luguvalium becomes the old Norman keep21:31 - Richard III, Mary Queen of Scots, and the Jacobites: Carlisle Castle’s long history24:52 - Another encounter with Max27:00 - Carlisle Cathedral (and more plundered wallstone)28:47 - Carlisle’s Guildhall30:06 - Misadventures in Carlisle dining31:46 - Carlisle to Bowness on Solway32:14 - Burgh by Sands: Aballava, Africans in Roman Britain, and Edward I’s unpleasant bout with dysentery34:53 - The Tidal Flats: Dykesfield, Drumburgh, and the dangers of high tide!37:45 - Bowness on Solway and a gathering at Fort Maia: Billy No-Mates and a man obsessed with cannibals!43:02 - Logistics of the Hike43:07 - Where to begin? In the west at Bowness, or in the east at Newcastle?45:38 - Resources for planning: books and maps47:10 - Lodging, adventure companies, luggage, and the AD 122 bus50:53 - Food: full English breakfasts and pub fare53:16 - Tips for the trail: rain, sunburn, and blisters, oh my!56:56 - Final Thoughts58:02 - Wrap-up
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    59 mins
  • Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)

    Hadrian's Wall, Part III: Hiking the Crags (Sewingshields to Birdoswald)
    May 15 2026

    Fabulous vistas and amazing artifacts await eager hikers along the central section of Hadrian’s Wall Path. Listen as Emily and Cam chat about them all in this installment of their series on the Wall. Get ready for Roman Army re-enactors, the world’s oldest surviving document written by a woman, and the tree that stole the show from Kevin Costner and Morgan Freeman—but watch out for the cheesecake!

    Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:

    • https://havetogawilltravel.com

    ----------

    00:11 - Introduction

    01:19 - Dialects: Cumbrian and Geordie

    • 02:05 - What's a dialect, anyway?
    • 02:26 - The Cumbrian Dialect
    • 04:18 - The Geordie Dialect

    05:30 - Sewingshields Crag

    • 06:38 - Views of the North Ditch
    • 07:40 - Preserved lengths of Wall along the Great Whin Sill
    • 09:31 - The summit of Sewingshields, gale warnings, and Joe the Dog

    13:02 - Housesteads Roman Fort

    • 13:39 - History, layout, and garrison of Vercovicium
    • 14:51 - Exploring Housesteads
    • 16:52 - The Ermine Street Guard: a modern Roman Legion

    19:51 - Hotbank and Highshields

    • 20:27 - The Clayton Wall
    • 21:22 - Milecastle 37 and its impressive North Gate

    22:51 - Sycamore Gap

    • 23:27 - The Sycamore that starred in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves
    • 25:07 - The senseless destruction of the tree (and some original Roman masonry)

    26:33 - Twice Brewed and Vindolanda

    • 26:44 - The Twice Brewed Inn: beds and beer!
    • 27:33 - Vindolanda and its history: the forts of the Stanegate
    • 29:08 - Exploring Vindolanda (and practicing your Latin!)
    • 29:57 - Vindolanda's anoxic soil and archaeological treasures
    • 31:17 - The Vindolanda Tablets: Sulpicia Lepidina receives a birthday party invitation, and Maculus wants beer!

    35:31 - Peel Crags to Walltown Crags

    • 36:51 - The Peel Crags and Castle Nick (or Milecastle 39)
    • 38:10 - The literal high point of the trail: Windshields Crag
    • 38:52 - Views of the Vallum
    • 40:16 - An encounter with a real-life snooty professor
    • 41:52 - The Carvoran Roman Army Museum, and some cool archaeology

    45:26 - The Irthing River Valley

    • 46:18 - Thirwall Castle and plundered wallstone
    • 47:01 - The Roman bridge at Willowford
    • 47:41 - Milecastle 49 and the junction of the turf and stone Walls
    • 48:24 - The walk to Birdoswald: Centurion Stones and Apotropaic Stones

    49:20 - Birdoswald Roman Fort

    • 49:36 - The history of Banna and its residents
    • 50:19 - Exploring Birdoswald and points nearby
    • 51:26 - Cocidius: a “Romanized” Celtic war god
    • 52:41 - Birdoswald's afterlife: warbands, reivers and Henry Norman
    • 55:19 - A misadventure with English cheesecake

    56:05 - Wrap-up
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    57 mins
  • Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh

    Hadrian’s Wall, Part II: Walking from Wallsend to Carrawburgh
    May 1 2026

    Curious to know what it’s like to walk the length of Hadrian’s Wall in northern England and experience the monument the way the ancient Romans did (on foot!)? Join Emily and Cam as they describe what there is to see and do along the first 38 miles of Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail. You’ll hear about Roman soldiers from Mesopotamia, a Smell-o-Rama (yes, really!), the modern worship of the ancient god Mithras, and what Cam thinks about Real Ale (spoiler: he loves it!).

    Visit our homepage to subscribe, to find us on social media, and to contact us by email:

    1. https://havetogawilltravel.com

    ----------

    00:10 - Introduction

    00:44 - Hadrian’s Wall Path

    1. 01:34 - Our experience on the Trail
    2. 02:12 - The history of the Trail and the English footpath system
    3. 03:32 - How we came to walk the Wall
    4. 05:00 - The three main sections of the Wall

    06:20 - Arbeia (South Shields)

    1. 06:49 - The fort and its garrison: the Tigris rivermen
    2. 10:43 - Some fun on the Newcastle Metro

    11:53 - Wallsend and Segedunum

    1. 12:02 - Latin everywhere!
    2. 12:44 - Exploring Segedunum Roman Fort
    3. 15:35 - The Wall Passport and Segedunum’s guest book

    16:53 - Newcastle and Newburn

    1. 16:59 - Tyneside and its industries
    2. 18:26 - The bridges of Newcastle
    3. 19:49 - Newburn: Keelman’s Lodge and Big Lamp Brewery
    4. 21:48 - Cam’s digression on Real Ale

    22:58 - Heddon on the Wall

    1. 23:19 - Blackberry season!
    2. 24:06 - The wall re-emerges
    3. 25:36 - Living with livestock along the Wall

    27:19 - The Portgate and Dere Street

    1. 28:25 - A digression on Sticky Toffee Pudding

    29:50 - Corbridge and Corstopitum

    1. 30:25 - A strategic junction: Dere Street, the Stanegate, the Tyne
    2. 31:50 - The Roman site and the museum
    3. 33:43 - Getting to Corbridge from the Wall
    4. 33:47 - Making friends along the trail

    37:00 - Heavenfield

    1. 37:13 - St. Oswald’s Way
    2. 37:39 - Bede and the Battle of Heavenfield

    38:38 - Planetrees

    1. 39:06 - The Broad Wall meets the Narrow Wall
    2. 39:45 - Why does the Narrow Wall exist?

    40:55 - The North Tyne, Chollerford, Chesters

    1. 41:22 - The Roman bridge across the North Tyne
    2. 42:26 - Chesters Fort: the site and its inhabitants
    3. 45:54 - Greencarts, the AD122 bus, and why doing the Trail in 2 days is a bad idea

    48:15 - The Mithraeum at Carrawburgh

    1. 49:34 - Mithras: the Romans reimagine an Iranian god
    2. 50:07 - Mithraism and other mystery cults
    3. 51:19 - The Mithraeum and its remains
    4. 52:14 - An encounter with a modern devotee of Mithras

    54:55 - Wrap-up
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    56 mins
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